Extracting speaker from cabinet

[fisher X 100 A]

So - now our ears have adjust to the new sounds (from tightening the cage screws) we have just noticed another vibration (or part of the previous vibration sound). Very internal sound from the bottom it seems.



taking the screws out
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ps - the music coming from my body at the moment is F#%k, how does this come out?




Now - with all four screw out.........how the F#%k do you extract this speaker?

I have thought about cutting a board just a little bigger than speaker size placing that over the speaker and then turning the cabinet.

To me it seems the cage sits proud of the speaker surround?










I have thought about levering the speaker out like below:eek:......but I am not that frustrated yet!!

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Also thinking of a type of tool that would insert through the screws holes in the cage (to grip/expand or circlip tool - snap ring tool? ) to allow me to pull the speaker straight up.

Also wondering if there is any product/material between the cage and cabinet that is helping it not move?

Any advice is better than none.

Cheers

[chris]

Place the cabinet on its back. Screw in a screw large enough to grip the driver chassis itself. Say, a 6mm screw into a 5mm hole. The essential part is that the screw is fixed in firmly but not through to the cabinet itself. Place a thin piece of wood on the cabinet surface under a claw hammer to protect it, and slowly draw the screw (and hopefully the driver) out like you would a nail.
Good luck.

[AgrAde]

Usually the foam/whatever gasket between the speaker and box acts a bit like an adhesive when it gets old. I've always managed to extract them by prying them out with a razor blade without marking them, but your situation looks a little more delicate.

[Luis]

There is no foam, rubber or other sort of adhesive. The driver is simply sitting in the cut-away wood baffle. There is about the same depth ( about 6mm ) of the gold frame sitting inside. You will see on the lower edge of the frame ( I can see it in the top photo ) that there is a slot. There is a sticker in there with the serial No. but it may also be to get the thing out more easily. It will just lift out, but it's not easy as you can't get a lot of purchase on the exposed frame. Just try and pry it out with your finger tips, or use that slot to lever it out.

[Luis]

BTW I note that you have the treble filters set at max. That's how I have them too. Strange that you have a rattle, as there shouldn't be much that can de loose in there. You sure those treble filter lugs are firmly screwed in?

[cloth_ears]

Perhaps it might help to warm the gasket by using a hairdrier

[Luis]

You can check the photos on this link to get an idea of what the driver looks like http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=61q12o7rqc4lgvql4agonrv686&topic=3013.0

[beeman]

I suggest tipping the speaker on its side - support the base of the driver & rock the box froward till it falls out under its own weight - be ready to catch it. Saves trying to lift against its dead weight

[fisher X 100 A]

Thanks Guys - and Luis, I totally missed that little slot!:o

So - have the speaker out and checked all bolts and screws - they are tight:)

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Made in 13 April 1987 - Are speakers like cars and become classic at 25 years of age:D
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I would like to pull out this board and inspect this. I am thinking that the Lugs/Post on the front will have to out and then tackle those white clips holding the board up?

Has anyone have a nice technique to releasing the white clips? Bit of a buggar as you can not see the back ones......will place a mirror inside when I do.

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Soon I am going to plug the speaker in and liven it......what should one be looking/hearing for on the speaker?......what can go wrong to cause a vibration sound?:confused:

[Luis]

I took the x-overs off, but broke 1 of the plastic clips as they are quite brittle. No harm done though as they are still well held. Be careful tough. I think if you squeeze the clip it makes it easier to release. Not sure what could be causing this vibration in your speaker but you should be able to isolate it once you fire up the driver outside the cabinet.
I've researched these LGMs a bit and found they were only made from 1986-89. The driver ( 3149 ) however was around for a while and used by Tannoy in several cabinet designs including the Edinburgh, which is a 200L behemoth. I've wondered how this would sound but don't have the DIY skills, motivation or $$$ to build a cabinet like this.

[fisher X 100 A]

Looking inside has started to make me wonder about a bigger cabinet. Just recently have designed and built a bassinet out of none structural ply.

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Little simple design on cad, printed the template and jigsawed out.

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Luis - would you be talking about this cabinet = Edinburgh
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There must be designs out on the WWW.

Any way, the speaker sounds fine out to my ears:D. Possible something on the board vibrating, wires touching?

Need a Stella to think about this - but to early in the morning:D

[Luis]

Yep, them's the Edinburghs. Looks like you may have the required skills to build a cabinet. Lots of info and ideas on this site if you're interested http://www.hilberink.nl/speaker.htm

[fisher X 100 A]

I would love to give a simple design ago - maybe with some internal angled traps also. Draw the base template with cad and add the angles then trace to base.

Need to find a holiday job while study has finished.:D






I have noticed the green electrical tape has come lose - and slides up and down the wires:eek:

Debating either to tape wires up, place speaker back in and give it a listen or; try to ease the x-over board off and have a look?


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[fisher X 100 A]

I have isolated the problem!

When ever I tap with my finger on the x-overs - something rattles on the board?



Red arrow indicating roughly where I am taping when vibration occurs -but if I tap on the little black transformer(?) no vibrating sound?


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I have to pull the x-over board off. Any great ideas on how to NOT break the white tabs? :D

[Owen Young]

I always think that it's better if signal wires are not bunched together, esp paralleled together like that (inductance, increased capacitance, etc).

Also, from a electromagnetic pickup (the driver magnet EMF) it is also arguably better to twist the wires together (the +/- signal wires in particular)...doesn't need to be tight, say 25-50m twist pitch). This should help also from a non-vibration standpt.

I'd just systematically check every item in there for rattle/wobble/looseness. Arrange the wires to avoid rattling against anything when bass gets going! Check also that the driver cone moves in & out smoothly without any friction/touching anything (put 3-4 fingers evenly around the outer cone & carefully/v gently push it in & out...note, only about 3-4mm in & out. (I trust that Chris approves here, in the absence of a sig gen. ;) )

PS. Impressive bassinet!

[paul300b]

I have isolated the problem!

When ever I tap with my finger on the x-overs - something rattles on the board?



Red arrow indicating roughly where I am taping when vibration occurs -but if I tap on the little black transformer(?) no vibrating sound?


7409


I have to pull the x-over board off. Any great ideas on how to NOT break the white tabs? :D

I wouldn't bother pulling it off. Using a hot glue gun to stick it down (the vibrating bit) and dampen it.

[fisher X 100 A]

Have the board out - with no broken post's....:)
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You can notice in this photo, the green and yellow wires leaving the time delay board folding under itself to the bottom board. Notice the blue & brown wires also passing under the Time delay board.

I swear they could be the culprit - touching the bottom side of the time delay board?

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So I re-routed and cable tied gently the green to the plastic post, unfolded the yellow, rerouted the blue and brown in-coming wires and cable tied to a bunch that will hopefully stay put and touch nothing.


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Owen - have gently twisted the incoming also - but now I am mentally going to think that speaker is better than the other due to this!!!:p
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[Luis]

I wonder, now that you've pulled out the innards, whether it's worth replacing all the cables with something of better quality? It's something I've thought of myself. I don't know enough to give an opinion on whether SQ would improve: is there anyone out there who would know?

[Owen Young]

I'd give it a tighter twist. Do all prs of signal wires.
Cable tie if you want, but best not to parallel them.

[fisher X 100 A]

Luis - Build something like this

Page 4 has very good pictures.
http://www.guitars-of-love.com/tannoygrfhorn.htm

:D

[fisher X 100 A]

So now the vibration is gone from the right speaker, I pulled the other out to twist wires and put a little bit of hot glue around the place - just like magic -----------the left speaker has a problem!:eek::eek:

So our ears might of been tuned into all the rattles before over a period of time, and now fixed them all this one has appeared or bad luck its just happened??

THE PROBLEM - when I push the cone in and out you can hear click sound - not a scraping sound......????

Pushing down there is no sound until you release back up, that's when the click occurs
7429

Seems to distort/vibrate (?) bad on heavy bass. Speaker does this in and out of the cabinet.



1. Is this speaker easy to undo and check out inside/clean/spray with something?

2. Any one have a link on how to do?

Sorry for my limited knowledge on Hi-Fi describing words:D

[Owen Young]

Don't spray anything at it!

Check if there is anything mechanically making the click noise, externally, eg. the bottom 'spider' ribbed suspension or the cone touching anything.

Then try rotating the driver & try the cone-pushing again (not too much movement, +/- 5mm say) - if it's related to the voice coil internally, then it may not occur when the cone is rotated say 180deg from how it has been sitting in the cabinet.

[fisher X 100 A]

Have had a good visual, nothing my untrained eyes can see that would cause mechanical vibration.

The rotation did not cure - no matter the orientation of the speaker that sound still occurs; also when the speaker was livened up 180 from normal.

I have uploaded a video of the speaker - the last 5 seconds grabs the sound!


http://youtu.be/UheeNMvv4u0

I will have another video of me depressing the cone and picking up that sound also - when YouTube process it, waiting like 20mins so far!

[fisher X 100 A]

Here is the other video - manually depressing.



http://youtu.be/RIkXZBQbuZg

[cloth_ears]

Does it make the sound if you disconnect it from the boards and depress it?

[fisher X 100 A]

Does it make the sound if you disconnect it from the boards and depress it?

Cloth_ears - Do you mean like this,


http://youtu.be/RIkXZBQbuZg